Careening through the streets and alleys of Delhi, a haze of curry, incense, and diesel blankets the city. Mudukar, the rickshaw driver, dropped me at the country's largest mosque, the Jama Masjid where the tensions of Mumbai's news melted into peace. Ablutions, pigeons, prayer, and smiles--this was the perfect stop in the center of chaos. The rest of the day was spent speeding through spice markets, bazaars, sari shops....zig-zagging between ox carts and handicapped Hindus, we returned safely to the hotel where 12 hours of divine sleep awaited me. Today was election day---the town was buttoned up as people lined the streets to cast their ballots.... The only riot, was a riot of color broke out in the form of ceremonial dance en route to a wedding... Two days ---already India's magic spell has begun to hypnotize the heart.
