December 6, 2008

Diversion from original "Yoga Plan"






Taking a trip up the hills to catch a glimpse of the Himalayan Peaks, my dear Dutch friends, Olav and Paula, and I became intoxicated with the distant mts. Within an hour from returning from the temple visits and views, the 3 of us have planned a 5 day trek to get a little closer. This will be a civilized excursion--walking 6-7 hours a day after the 8 hour road trip from Rishikesh to "base camp". None of us had come to India intending to venture into the Himalaya, but the raw, vast power of the young mountain chain is seductive. So today, we run around town gathering chocolate, snacks, gloves, and extra layers to support us while exploring the lake and temple area on the edge of a glacier. We've been gifted a bottle of whiskey to help with the below freezing temperatures under the stars, and the cook has promised warm chai and coffee at sunrise. A different kind of sun salutation---the "ashram" yoga will have to wait. The photos here are just a few images captured around town between errands.
More soon

December 4, 2008

Kali in Rishikesh


I met her!!! Kali! Goddess of Destruction....in the form of a thali (south indian food sample platter) here in Rishikesh. She purified my soul and my belly. Now, two days later, I am stronger and able to enjoy the beauty of this magical village town on the banks of the powerful Ganges. I have been befriended by Diwali, my elder, statesman-like hotelier. Under a cool sun, we sip chai while sitting in wicker chairs on his porch. He likes to discuss politics, geography, and how dreams become reality. Rishikesh, land of Gods, is nestled in the foothills of the Himalaya. The town is full of seekers, sadhus, pilgrims, merchants, snake charmers, monkeys, yoga ashrams and ayurvedic treatment centers. The slate green Ganges winds around curves and boulders and pujas (rituals) are performed on her banks each evening. The first night here I dipped my hands in the water, tears rolling down my cheeks---for the first time here, I felt the timelessness of sorrows and joys of this place. It's a powerful spot, Rishikesh, and it has humbled me and slowed my pace. After the rickshaw rapidness of Delhi, it is very good to breathe more deeply and begin to surrender to this wild dream called India.

November 29, 2008

rickshaws and curries


Careening through the streets and alleys of Delhi, a haze of curry, incense, and diesel blankets the city. Mudukar, the rickshaw driver, dropped me at the country's largest mosque, the Jama Masjid where the tensions of Mumbai's news melted into peace. Ablutions, pigeons, prayer, and smiles--this was the perfect stop in the center of chaos. The rest of the day was spent speeding through spice markets, bazaars, sari shops....zig-zagging between ox carts and handicapped Hindus, we returned safely to the hotel where 12 hours of divine sleep awaited me. Today was election day---the town was buttoned up as people lined the streets to cast their ballots.... The only riot, was a riot of color broke out in the form of ceremonial dance en route to a wedding... Two days ---already India's magic spell has begun to hypnotize the heart.

November 11, 2008

November 10, 2008


Swami dreams....
It's bedtime in Taos and on the other side of the planet, autorickshaws swerve between skinny cows, chai guzzlers wait with presence, and smash clay cups on village train platforms---the red sun glows above, while the snow falls from a black sky here.
17 sleeps between us.