pilgrims and angels

I've left the intensity of Varanasi and found a different energy on the soil where the Buddha lives. Buddhists converge here in early January to recite a world prayer for peace led by the 17th Karmapa. The Karmapa is to the Kagyu lineage what the Dalai Lama is to the Geluka lineage in Tibet. The reincarnated Karmapa is young-- 20, or so, years old, with a sweet face, and a bit of western attitude----The town swarmed with maroon and mustard robes from all over Asia to hear his reincarnated insights and enjoy some global prayer----An incredible sight and a nice shift from the frenetic vibe of Hindu India....

After another foggy train ride and a 3am arrival, I found some peace under the same tree where the Buddha became enlightened. Many people walked (and rested) by the tree hoping for a connection to the Buddha's liberating message of non-attachment and impermanence. Many visitors seemed far from the message as they talked in the "respect for silence" zone, snapped photos, and grasped at leaves dropping from the branches. I sat next to 2 Vietnamese nuns quietly praying. They smiled at me, as I found my breath and settled into some internal silence. I was awakened by the subtle sound of a Bodhi leaf falling on the ground in front of me. A big grin came across my neighboring nun's face---as she said "Buddha wanted you to have it!" Feeling the good fortune, I took the leaf and meditated some more.

I woke from my concentration to find a pilgrim in traditional Tibetan dress and braids standing in front of me. He had been circumambulating the stupa in front of me, his well-worn socks barely covering his weary feet----Taking a break from his circles, he smiled and put his hands over his heart. I felt something holy in his kindness and smiled back----a wordless connection...He reached his brown-boned hands toward mine--warm palms pressed for a moment, then he padded away. He circled again, and this time, stopped and gave me an apple out of his black and maroon shoulder bag-then he moved on. He circled again and this time joined me on the bench where the nuns and I sat--- Another offering--- he pushed his orange plastic mug of warm yak milk at me and a white roll and cheese sandwich to share. With no food to exchange, I placed the auspicious and treasured bodhi leaf in his lap. He smiled, put his arm around my shoulder, and pulled me in close to recite the mantra in the nun's chant book. We chimed in with 1,000's of Buddhists unified in prayer and then he left. I saw him later performing non-stop prostrations on the other side of the tree.